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Process
Why Carve by Hand?
I use a mallet and chisels and occasionally sand paper for smoothing surfaces. Although pneumatic tools can be useful in some applications, I prefer to carve by hand. This is in part as a result of my training, but also because hand tools are better suited to fine detail work. Using compressed air is also noisy, dust producing, and leaves your hands numb, while carving with a mallet and chisel, although more time consuming, is a more pleasurable experience and in my opinion, a more intimate way of working with the stone. There are very few people who carve stone by hand in the United States, but those who do appreciate these differences. Carving in Relief Hand tools are well suited to relief carving as it does not require as much removal of stone as sculpting. I choose to transfer an image from paper to the stone. This is most easily done with transfer paper if the stone surface is smooth. Otherwise I mount an image onto construction paper, and cut around its perimeter to make a template. I then place the template on the stone and trace along its perimeter with the edge of a chisel. I go over the fine contour line left in the stone with a mallet and chisel so that it cannot be wiped away. Before carving any details, I bring the general shape of the figure out in relief, keeping in mind what is intended to stand forward and what is brought back. I then scribe in other important lines referring to the template as needed. The rest I carve as I go and leave to my own interpretation while staying within the general proportions set by the template. Getting Started Carving in stone is calming and energizing and it is immensely rewarding knowing that your hand's work is left indelibly for generations to appreciate. It does not require much to get started and with a little patience you can learn on your own. You need a workbench, a few chisels, a mallet, a sharpening stone, and of course a stone to carve. Please see 'Tools' below for some recommendations. Here is a brief discussion of what to do once you have them. Technique 
The technique is quite simple, but like anything, it takes time before it comes naturally. As the chisel is struck it is constantly adjusted up and down to keep from burying too deep into the stone or from slipping and not catching enough of it. The angle of the point of the chisel and the hardness of the stone also determine the angle at which the chisel is hammered. With a firm grip and some determination and patience these adjustments eventually become second nature. The mallet is tapped with a soft repetition while cutting fine lines, or with harder strokes (and sometimes with a larger mallet) to remove stone more quickly. Although it is a slow process, I always find when I stop that I wonder how the time passed so quickly. I learned a great deal by carving rough stones into rectangular blocks but I doubt anyone would willingly commit to such an undertaking on their own initiative. Still, patience and concentration are needed to carve, and learning to cut an even straight line is a worthwhile practice. I would recommend starting with a simple design which can be cut out and made into a template. If you would like to replicate a drawing precisely, trace it onto the stone with transfer paper and then go over the important lines lightly tapping the chisel to set them into the stone. Carving requires a continual focus of mind as every blow from the mallet reflects an intention, leaving an intimate and lasting signature in each piece. The stone you choose to carve will determine which tools you use. For harder stones carbide tipped chisels are preferable, otherwise tempered steel chisels are well suited to softer stones. 
Primarily I use carbide tipped chisels which I bought in India (center and right in pouch). With their delicate size of about that of a pencil and fine but sturdy points, they are well suited for detailed work and hold their sharpness. If you are interested in these chisels please contact me. Larger chisels are used for deeper relief work or for sculpting. I often use American made Trow and Holden carbide chisels (left in pouch) which are heavier in the hand and can remove stone with greater ease and speed. Sharpening It is essential to have a good sharpening stone (diamond grit for carbide tools) and to keep chisels sharp. Detailed work requires frequent sharpening of tools as a dulled chisel will leave a broken edge to the line it cuts. Proper sharpening also takes time to learn. The chisel is held at the same angle (about 30 degrees) on both sides and it is important that it is pressed evenly. Besides a sharpening stone, a sharpening wheel is useful while cutting harder stone due to the heavier wear on the chisels. Home | About | Gallery | Contact |